The world's best whisky is from Funen
It is not easy to put words on the taste of whisky. Taste, as we know, cannot be discussed. Either it is a somewhat complicated acquaintance. Or the golden drops are eternally blissful. And for those who love 'the water of life,' Mosgaard Distillery on Tanghavevej just outside the southern Funen town of Oure is a small piece of paradise.
For almost ten years, master distiller Jes Mosgaard has worked diligently here to refine both the taste and color of the single malt whisky that he produces almost 15,000 bottles of each year. The result is unmistakable. It is nearly perfect. In fact, so perfect that his Moscatel Single Malt Whisky was crowned the world's best 'Small Batch Single Malt Whisky' this year. And we are truly talking about a small production. The whisky is aged in quarter casks – small barrels that hold just 64 liters.
This is a whisky that has fine flavor nuances that set it apart from its Scottish Highland brothers and sisters. Here, you can find flavor notes of sugarcane and caramel over pepper, anise, and lime to mint and the richness of Brazil nuts. Moreover, it contains a slight salty undertone, which is due to the whisky being aged in Moscatel sherry casks sourced from an area close to the Atlantic Ocean.
It is precisely these casks that the whisky is aged in that are crucial for the whisky bottled, says Anne Mosgaard, who joined the family business as administrative manager last year: “Where we try to stand out is precisely our ability to find the best oak casks in the sherry area of southern Spain. It is quite a challenge. We are a small producer competing with large whisky distilleries around the world that are also on the hunt for the best oak casks. But my father, Jes, has built a good network in the area, where we buy casks from many of the smaller sherry vineyards.”
It is the sherry casks that help give the whisky its distinct color and flavor. “This is where we try to stand out from the crowd. We create whisky that contains both sweetness and fruity flavor nuances. But always well-balanced. And definitely a whisky that resonates in the international market as well,” explains Anne Mosgaard, continuing: “Part of our success also lies in our willingness to experiment to create fine whisky with exciting flavor notes. The aging may start after the first 10-14 days of fermentation and the subsequent double distillation in oak casks from Moscatel, but during the process, it is transferred to an oak cask that has been used for bourbon or sherry with another grape variety to enhance specific flavor notes.”
When Mosgaard Whisky is ready to be bottled after six years of aging, it has achieved precisely the quality that has made it a hit among whisky connoisseurs both domestically and internationally. “It is certainly telling that the awards we have won at international tasting competitions have been in competition with whiskies that have been aged for 12 years or more.”
Started with gin
Jes Mosgaard has always been interested in the processes necessary to create a good whisky. In fact, he has gone through the whole spectrum: from brewing beer and wine to gin and now distilling barley into single malt whiskies that have won many international awards. “Gin was a step on the way to whisky,” says Anne Mosgaard, continuing: “We still produce a fine gin with various flavor nuances. But for my father, it was probably mostly to finance the whisky production. This is where his true interest lies. And the fascination and love for the craft have led to our whisky today winning fine awards.”
Whisky, like cognac, is not tied to a specific geographical region. Naturally, many immediately associate whisky with Scotland or, at a push, Ireland. But the only requirement is that it is an alcoholic drink with an alcohol content of at least 40% and that it has been aged for a minimum of three years. Perhaps this is why it has been a challenge for some to accept that Danish whisky today has such high quality as is the case. “But we are well supported by a stable domestic market with plenty of loyal customers. Furthermore, in the last 10-15 years, we have seen a large number of microdistilleries springing up across the country. Not least has Danish gin made its mark, and several other distilleries like Stauning and Thy have, like us, succeeded in creating fine whisky,” concludes Anne Mosgaard.
In the coming years, Mosgaard Whisky will continue its journey with an even greater focus on exports – and not least single cask whisky, where the whisky comes from a single oak cask. But the experimental approach to whisky production and deep respect for the processes that result in the golden drops will not be compromised.