Polo St. Moritz, Schweiz
In the southeastern part of Switzerland lies the canton of Graubünden. This may not mean much to most. But when the small alpine village of St. Moritz is mentioned, a little bell might start ringing. For more than 160 years, this small town with just under 5,000 residents has been one of the mainstays of winter sports. In fact, the Winter Olympics have been held here twice, in 1928 and 1948.
However, perhaps it is the many – and expensive – winter furs and diamonds that sparkle alongside the snow crystals on the mountain slopes during the winter season. St. Moritz has been the meeting point for the absolute elite of the world with skiing as the central focus. Here, chalets worth 100 million kroner exist, five-star hotels where a single night's stay can easily exceed 10,000 kroner. Every year, more than 10,000 private jets land with royals and Hollywood stars at the small local airport. Mink and Ferraris are commonplace. And the town's landscape is naturally dominated – one is tempted to say – by large international brands like Gucci, Cartier, and Armani.
It is simply the pinnacle of glamour. A small sun-kissed spot with over 320 sunny days a year. No wonder the nine mountains surrounding the Engadine valley are a popular skiing destination. But St. Moritz offers more than cross-country skiing and slalom. The town also accommodates other sports.
Snow Polo on the Frozen Lake
Some of the city's most entertaining activities take place on the frozen lake, which lies at the foot of the mountains that provide snow for skiing. There are thoroughbred horse races on ice and, not least, the so-called ski driving, an Olympic discipline from 1928, where the jockey stands on skis behind the horse. This event has been a regular occurrence since 1906, when 13 gentlemen raced a 10-kilometer course on skis, pulled by galloping thoroughbred horses.
But one of the major highlights in St. Moritz is the snow polo championships. For the occasion, the lake is cleared of snow and equipped with spectator stands.
The polo horses are shod with special shoes with winter soles and hooks to prevent slipping when chasing the orange ball, which is meant to end up between the goalposts. The players are among the best in the world and come from all corners of the globe. These so-called white turf events attract an exclusive audience, filled with fur coats and famous faces, and expensive champagne flows freely during the days at the end of January when the celebrity events take place.
The snow polo tournament attracts around 25,000 spectators each year over the three days of the event. Many stroll quietly around the lake. Others eat, listen to music, or simply enjoy the champagne. "This is the place to be. And the place to be seen," says Markus Berger, spokesman for the Swiss Tourist Board, to the New York Times, adding: "For many, it’s like a class reunion party."
But perhaps this is an event that has seen better days. For climate change is also sneaking into traditional winter sports destinations in Switzerland. In January 2024, the organizers had to cancel the polo tournament itself due to unusually high temperatures, which meant the ice could not support it.
From the Swiss Tourist Board, there is hope that temperatures in January 2025 will drop sufficiently on the thermometer so that the traditional tournament can continue. They trust that St. Moritz's location at an altitude of about 1,800 meters is enough to prevent climate change and high temperatures from having the same consequences as this year. "We hope this was the exception – and not a 'New Normal'," says Markus Berger.
But even though climate challenges have also crept into life in St. Moritz, it is hardly the end for this iconic winter sports destination. Snow and frost periods may shift. There is still plenty of snow in the whole area, where from December through March, one can expect a snow depth of around 150 cm.
And not least, legendary hotels such as the Kulm Hotel will continue to attract dozens of wealthy guests who wish to feel the breath of history. Many famous and royal guests have stayed and dined at one of the many restaurants. Names like Alfred Hitchcock and Charlie Chaplin frequently appear in the guest books.
St. Moritz is truly a unique alpine vacation destination, where the dress code still means dress to impress. Both indoors and outdoors.